Since we had a mostly stellar dinner at House of Tides, I had wondered if they were going to open for lunch at any stage. The cheapest midweek menu still clocks in at £45 per head, not including service etc which takes dinner here into what for us is very much the "treat zone". When I heard they were indeed opening for Sunday lunches I got us booked up and then wondered what we'd exactly we'd be eating. A full-on roast presumably, but how would this most traditional of meals look once refracted through the "casual fine dining" lense? And what would the pre and post-roast options look like? Read on.
|White onion veloute, Paris brown mushrooms, chorizo|
|Pink Fir Apple 1850, quail's egg, asparagus, celeriac|
|Vanilla Rice Pudding, Strawberries, Honeycomb|
|Dark chocolate pave, raspberries, rose water, meringue|
Service was spot-on, although the person-getting-plates-off-a-tray-someone-else-holds thing seems to sit at odds with the stated objective of informality. No matter. More importantly, I was recommended a vibrantly good glass of Brazilian red to go with the beef which packed the perfect level of tannin to complement iron-rich meat.
No doubt about it, this is a superb sunday lunch. The main act is handled with aplomb and the bookending courses offer up some creative, technically precise and totally delicious cooking. And there's the thing; food at this standard, at this price, is a total bargain. I can imagine people who considered eating here but haven't yet will now be tempted to do so. And they very much should. Think of it as a scouting mission for that next time the parents show up or something. For comparison, this is the same price charged by Brown's, Or, if you prefer, you could have 3.84 shots at the unlimited slurry and desiccated protein slice at your nearest Toby Carvery. "Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are", said some French lad once. Which is a really pretentious way of saying nothing much. But anyway, House of Tides do a thoroughly top-flight Sunday lunch which comes highly recommended.
House of Tides, 28-30 The Close, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 3RF
0191 230 3720